IDNO

N.102643.MF

Description

Three Tallensi men wearing cloth caps and woven smocks are visible in the foreground. [AF 13/6/2008]

Place

W Africa; Ghana; Upper East Region [Gold Coast; Northern Territories]

Cultural Affliation

Tallensi

Named Person

Photographer

Fortes, Meyer

Collector / Expedition

Fortes, Meyer

Date

?February - ?April 1934

Collection Name

Fortes Collection

Source

Drucker-Brown, Susan

Format

Film Negative Black & White

Primary Documentation

Other Information

N.102560.MF - N.102652.MF were kept in the negative album “IV” now numbered C558/.

Clothing: “Frafra men now wear commercially produced slacks or shorts and various kinds of cotton smocks. By the 1970’s Fortes noted that “many [men] have two or three garments -a cloth and a tunic, for instance, while well-to-do men have considerable wardrobes” (1945: 11, n.1). These smocks or tunics are tailored from strips of cloth woven by non-Frafra men on a horizontal loom. The Frafra themselves do not weave. ... In the late 1930’s Fortes remarked: “All cotton goods are imported. The Mossi cloth used in former days is still a favourite. especially for loin cloths and caps, and tunics for special wear. The bulk of it is still imported for French territory, but there are some Mossi weavers at Boleya (Bolgatanga) and Zuanrangu who add to the supply (1945:11, n. 1)”. Smith, F.T., ‘Frafra Dress,’ African Arts, Vol. 15, No. 3, p. 36-42+92.). [ED 3/12/2007]

Clothing: “In addition, the cut of the narrowband smock reflects status and social importance. The most widespread and ordinary type is the danseka, a sleeveless smock (Fig. 9). This type, which can be worn by any adult, is the typical male garment of northern Ghana. ... According to a Frafra tailor, “Anyone can wear a danseka, even a chief” (interview at Zuarangu, February 1973). Except for the danseka which is usually purchased in the market, a smock of any importance is commissioned from a “reputable” tailor, especially one who handcrafts his product.” (Smith, F.T., 1982, ‘Frafra Dress,’ African Arts, Vol. 15, No. 3, pp. 36-42+92). [ED 3/12/2007]
Bibliographical Reference: Fortes, Meyer, 1945. Dynamics of Clanship Among the Tallensi (London: Oxford University Press).

Bibliographical Reference: Fortes, Meyer, 1949. The Web of Kinship Among the Tallensi (London: Oxford University Press).

Bibliographical Reference: Fortes, Meyer, 1987. Religion, Morality and the Person: Essays on Tallensi Religion (London: Oxford University Press).

This catalogue record has been updated with the support of the Getty Grant Program Two. [Elisabeth Deane 22/2/2008]