Accession No

1893.45 F-G


Description

Boots, one pair, knee-high. Each is made from fish skin in basically seven-piece construction. One piece forms the sole which is turned over the sides of the foot and crimped around the ends of the toes; another piece forms the upper foot and forms a point on front of lower leg; triangular piece at the back of the heel; two pieces form the leg section; and two rectangular pieces form the cuff around the upper edge. Seams are sewn with sinew and vegetable fibre in waterproof stitch. Skin at the upper edge is turned to the exterior to form a casing secured with twisted sinew in running stitch. Twisted sinew tie is threaded through casing with the ends emerging through two holes at the back of the leg. Four tabs of fish skin are sewn into seam around sole; two along each side of foot. Structural sewing is with sinew.


Place

Arctic; North America; ?United States of America; ?Alaska


Period


Source

Caldwell, Robert Townley (Colonel) [donor]


Department

Anth


Reference Numbers

1893.45 F-G; MAA: AR 1893.62; [1895.45]; 203


Cultural Affliation

?Aleut; ?Alutiit; ?Unangan


Material

Fish skin; Sinew; Plant Fibre


Local Term

kamleika (Black 1982:157)


Measurements


Events

Description (Labels & Markings)
F& G: Paper label glued to front of one boot reads: '1893-45 F,G Fish Skin boots. Asian Eskimo. Col. R.T. Caldwell M.A.' (transcribed by J. Hall, June 2004)
Event Date
Author: Imogen Gunn (admin)


Description (Labels & Markings)
Paper label attached to E reads: "Church Society. Salisbury Sqe London NW America" (transcribed by J. Hall, June 2004)
Event Date
Author: Imogen Gunn (admin)


Description (Labels & Markings)
Paper label glued to front of E reads "203". (transcribed by J. Hall, June 2004)
Event Date
Author: Imogen Gunn (admin)


Description (Labels & Markings)
'Paper label glued to back of E: "1893 - 45 D,E Skin shoes. Eskimo. Col. R. T. Caldwell M.A." (transcribed by J. Hall, June 2004)
Event Date
Author: Imogen Gunn (admin)


Description (Physical description)
Original catalogue card: 'The Arctic, Esquimaux Skin Upper Dress (A), and pairs of shoes (B) and Trousers and Two Pairs of Shoes (D,E; F; G). Skin is probably seal intestine. It has been suggested this could be gut." (transcribed by J.Hall, March 2005)
Event Date
Author: Imogen Gunn (admin)


Description (Physical description)
F & G: pair of shoes.
Event Date
Author: Imogen Gunn (admin)


Context (References)
Black, Lydia Aleut Art. Anchorage, Alaska, 1982: 154-163.

Event Date 1982
Author: Imogen Gunn (admin)


Context (Display)
Exhibited: Displayed in case 9, CUMAA anthropology galleries, until on 9 July 1986.
Event Date 9/7/1986
Author: Imogen Gunn (admin)


Context (References)
Hickman, Pat. (1987). Innerskins/Outerskins: Gut and Fishskins. San Francisco: San Francisco Craft and Folk Museum
Event Date 1987
Author: Imogen Gunn (admin)


Description (Physical description)
J. Hall: 'Boots, one pair, knee-high. Each is made from fish skin in basically seven -piece construction. One piece forms the sole which is turned over the sides of the foot and crimped around the ends of the toes; another piece forms the upper foot and forms a point on front of lower leg; triangular piece at the back of the heel; two pieces form the leg section; and two rectangular pieces form the cuff around the upper edge. Seams are sewn with sinew and vegetable fibre in waterproof stitch. Skin at the upper edge is turned to the exterior to form a casing secured with twisted sinew in running stitch. Twisted sinew tie is threaded through casing with the ends emerging through two holes at the back of the leg. Four tabs of fish skin are sewn into seam around sole; two along each side of foot. Structural sewing is with sinew.'
Event Date 6/2004
Author: Imogen Gunn (admin)


Context (Analysis)
Judy Hall, Curator of Eastern Woodlands and Arctic Ethnology, Canadian Museum of Civilization, Gatineau, Quebec, Canada identified this as 'Unangan (Aleut) type'
Event Date 3/2005
Author: Imogen Gunn (admin)


Conservation (Repack)
CON.2015.1655 | Repack
Event Date 23/6/2015
Author: Imogen Gunn (admin)


Conservation (Repack)
CON.2015.1656 | Repack
Event Date 23/6/2015
Author: Imogen Gunn (admin)


Context (Amendments / updates)
The Cultural Group field previously read 'Eskimo' based on the accession register. 'Inuit' was added at an unknown time. Following advice from a visiting researcher in 2005 'Unangan (Aleut) type' was added. This field was updated again in 2024 to include the names used in Lincoln, A., Cooper, J., and Loovers, J. P. L. (2020) Arctic: Culture and Climate. London: Thames and Hudson and The British Museum, pp.10-11.
Event Date 15/8/2024
Author: Kirsty Kernohan


FM:280885

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