Accession No
MN0126.94
Description
Official state jacket of the Burmese General U Kan Gyi. The gold silk is heavily decorated with gold sequins and braiding around the cuffs and the outside of the chest and back. The arms are made from red velvet, with the back panel of the jacket being green velvet. Original labels are seen with the jacket.
Place
Asia; Southeast Asia; Myanmar; Mandalay; Amarapura
Period
19th century 1852
Source
Singer, Noel Francis [donor]; Steel, William Strange (Mr) [other owner]; Tarleton (Captain) [collector]; Gyi, U Kan [original owner]
Department
Anth
Reference Numbers
MN0126.94; MAA: MN0126.94; 94
Cultural Affliation
Material
Silk; Velvet; Metal; Sequins
Local Term
Measurements
710mm
Events
Context (Other owners)
Purchased by William Strange Steel, Esquire, of Phisliphaugh, Selkirk, Ayrshire, Scotland.
Event Date
Author: Mark Elliott (Admin)
Context (Other owners)
Taken by Captain Tarleton, R.N, commander of the Medusa, after the defeat of General Bandula's army on 10 July 1852 at Akauk taung, Pyay (Prome).
Event Date 10/7/1852
Author: Mark Elliott (Admin)
Description (Labels & Markings)
Dennison Luggage tag accompanying object printed with heading 'MILITARY EXHIBITION, LONDON, 1901. Historical and Relic Selection.' Manuscript in black ink reads: 'The Burmese General Bundoola's State Dress with "Dah" (Ivory handled Sword) see over. Second manuscript in black ink: "General Barnett Ford, 31 Queensborough Terrace Hyde Park."
Verso manuscript in black ink lists elements of the complete costume:
'The [illegible]?outfit is in 5 Parts:
1. Coat
2. Collar
3. Cap
4. [illegible] ?Purse
5. Putzo (or Body Silk)
6. Fronts (transparent)
Event Date 1901
Author: Annie McKay
Description (Labels & Markings)
Exhibition label reads 'BURMESE STATE COURT DRESS [illegible] Burmese State Court Dress heavily embroidered in Gold, formerly belonging to the Burmese General Bundoola (The son of the elder General of the first Burmese War of 1824-1826. Extract from a telegraphic despatch from Captain Tarleton, R.N., to the Government of India. "On the 10th July 1852 fell in with General Bundoola's army which after attack fled, leaving 28 guns etc, state barge, Standards, baggage etc" amongst which loot was secured the above state dress, which being well authenicated as the General's property became that by purchase of present owner Wm. Strang Steel Esq., of Philipshaugh Selkirk, who permits its exhibition by Major Gen. Barnett Ford.'.
Event Date 4/5/1901
Author: Annie McKay
Context (Display)
Exhibited at the Military Exhibition of 1901, at Earls Court, London, from 4 May 1901
The large exhibition label read:
“Burmese State Court Dress heavily embroidered in Gold, formerly belonging to the Burmese General Bundoola (The son of the elder General of the first Burmese War of 1824-26)
Extract from the telegraphic despatch from Captain Tarleton, R.N. to the Government of India.
“On the 10th July 1852 fell in with General Bundoola’s Army which after attack fled, leaving 88 guns etc., state barge, Standards, baggage etc.”
Amongst which loot was secured the above state dress, which, being well authenticated as the General’s property, became that by purchase of present owner Wm. Strange Steel Esq., of Pilipshaugh Selkirk, who permits its exhibition by Major Gen. Barnett Ford.”
Information provided by Donor, Mr Noel Francis Singer
Event Date 4/5/1901
Author: Mark Elliott
Context (Auction / Sale)
Purchased by Noel F. Singer in Portobello Road, April 1993.
Event Date 4/1993
Author: Mark Elliott (Admin)
Context (References)
Published in Singer, Noel F. (1994). Maha Bandula The Younger: Burmese Court Costumes in the West. Arts of Asia, vol. 24, no. 6, Nov-Dec 1994, pp. 101-108
Caption: 'The myee-toe (jacket) or military state-dress of U Kyan Gyi, Maha Bandula, found by Captain Tarleton in July 1852. Missing is the lower half, myee-shay, which according to the patent for ministers of the Thado rank should be of red velvet.'
Event Date 11/1994
Author: Mark Elliott (Admin)
Description (Labels & Markings)
Hand written label see with object reads '94 + 95'. This is in reference to Singer's original inventory, of which this jacket is number 94.
Event Date 2016
Author: Annie McKay
Description (Physical description)
Detailed description from Noel Singer's List dated 16 January 2017:
OFFICIAL STATE ROBE OF MAHA BANDOOLA, THE YOUNGER
Part of the official state robe of the Burmese General U Kan Gyi, also known as Bandula the Younger. See Singer's 'Maha Banfula The Younger: Burmese Court Costumes in the West", Arts of Asia, vol. 24, no. 6, pp. 101-108, Nov-Dec 1994
Fortunately, we have the original labels and tag (numbered 208) which is dated to 1901. The costume (many of the accessories now missing) was exhibited at The Military Exhibition, [Earl's Court] London in 1901. [found in London's Portobello Road]
According to the tag, the complete costume consisted of
1. The Coat (or jacket)
2. Collar
3. Cap
4. Picria (?meaning and writing unclear)
5. Putzo (or Body Silk: meaning a long skirt like waistcloth)
6. Fronts (transparent; meaning the two tasselled scarf which would have been tied to the waist (Indian work, [possibly Benares].
[only the jacket, collar, chest ornament, belt and two small fragments of the original long shawl came into Singer’s possession]
The reverse said:
The Burmese General Banduola’s State Dress with Dah (sword)
General Barnett Ford with address of Hyde Park.
A smaller label said:
Burmese State Court Dress
Lent by Major General Barnett Ford.
The large label:
“Burmese State Court Dress heavily embroidered in Gold, formerly belonging to the Burmese General Bundoola (The son of the elder General of the first Burmese War of 1824-26)
Extract from the telegraphic despatch from Captain Tarleton, R.N. to the Government of India.
“On the 10th July 1852 fell in with General Bundoola’s Army which after attack fled, leaving 88 guns etc., state barge, Standards, baggage etc.”
Amongst which loot was secured the above state dress, which, being well authenticated as the General’s property, became that by purchase of present owner Wm. Strange Steel Esq., of Pilipshaugh Selkirk, who permits its exhibition by Major Gen. Barnett Ford.”
Event Date 16/1/2017
Author: Mark Elliott (Admin)
Description (Physical description)
Official state jacket of the Burmese General U Kan Gyi. The gold silk is heavily decorated with gold sequins and braiding around the cuffs and the outside of the chest and back. The arms are made from red velvet, with the back panel of the jacket being green velvet. The lining of the jacket is patterned orange and yellow silk. There is a rim of light green silk around the bottom and cuffs of the jacket. Loose threads are seen throughout, metal threads and the hem have frayed slightly.
Event Date 27/11/2017
Author: Annie McKay
FM:278742
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