Accession No
2003.9
Description
Solju. Circular brooch, made by Anu Forselus, of silver and gold-plated silver with a long pin fastening on the back. Front of the brooch is comprised of two circles. The smaller, inner circle is domed, and is decorated with cut-out pointed ovals and stamped triangles. The larger, outer circle is slightly convex, and is decorated with gold plated convex circles which hang from soldered silver rings. Made to be worn by a woman.
Place
Europe; Northern Europe; Fenno-Scandinavia; Sápmi; East Finnmark; Nesseby Parish; Varangerbotn
Period
Modern
Source
Webb, Sharon [collector and donor]
Department
Anth
Reference Numbers
2003.9
Cultural Affliation
Inari Sámi
Material
Metal; Silver; Gold
Local Term
Solju (‘silver brooch’ in Sámi around Varanger fjord area) Risko (in Karasjok and Kautokenio)
Measurements
86mm x 88mm
Events
Context (Field collection)
‘The artefact was collected by Sharon Webb following Ph.D. fieldwork done in the area in 1998, 1999, 2000 and 2002. Interviews were made with the makers of the artefacts, these are lodged in the Museum’s paper archive with tapes of the interviews and a copy of the report on the collecting project. The interviews consist of detailed conversations as to how the artefacts were made and what they mean to the Sámi today. All Sámi handicrafts are called duodji (this translates as ‘anything a Sámi person makes with their hands’). The brooch was made by Anu Forselus, a Finnish goldsmith living in Varangerbotn. (Bio) Anu Forselus was born in South Finland, trained 5 years at design and handcraft school specialising in jewellery design. Moved to Kautokeino 1984 to work at Juhls Silver shop (this is a well known Sámi silver workshop - worked for 14 years there then moved to Varangerbotn (1998) to start up her own workshop. This has been built up from repairs and so on. Now makes Sámi silver and other designs. Sámi silver has a long history - but it is only in recent years that Sámi poeple themselves have taken training to become goldsmiths therefore, Sámi silver has most often been made by non-Sámi goldsmiths. Sámi silver is a special category of duodji, or is not regarded as duodji, because of this – it is the design, style and form that denotes what is Sámi silver. There are strict rules as to what is Sámi silver and what is not. Forselus comments that sometimes she is stricter than the customers. She often does research to find out what was the older style of Sámi silver.Silver is a large part of the traditional costume, for both men and women. Women wear brooches, men wear collar fastners, both may have silver ornaments on the belt (if the belts are made of leather). Taste in jewellery varies between areas, for example between Varanger and Kautokenio. Anu Forselus also makes other kinds of jewellery that are not traditionally used by Sámi, but with Sámi designs. See paper archive for more information concerning Sámi silver and related questions. The brooch was made by taking a round silver plate from which a hole is cut. The stamp designs are made when the brooch is flat. The triangle shapes appearing here are taken from earlier bone work designs. The plate is then hammered to get the rounded shape. The central part is made separatley then soldered into the outer circle of the brooch. Rings are then soldered onto the outer part of the brooch, then the gold plated decorative plates are attached. These hanging plates are called laugasta in Sámi, they are gold plated by Anu, but not made by her. It is very difficult to make them so that they have the correct sound - and it is very important that they should make the correct sound when a person moves. Machine made plates are thinner, but harder than handmade ones. Notes made during fieldwork.' S. Webb - 20/3/2003.
Event Date 8/5/2003
Author: maa
Description (Physical description)
Round brooch with long pin fastening. Front of the brooch is made up of two circles, one inside the other. The smaller, inner circle is decorated with cut-out shapes and stamped decoration. The larger, outer circle is decorated with convex gold plated discs which hang from soldered rings. Made to be worn by a woman.
Event Date 8/5/2003
Author: maa
Context (Found together / assemblage)
The brooch is stored in the original cardboard box. The box has printed motifs, in brown, of reindeer and a figure on a sled pulled by two reindeer.
Event Date 8/3/2023
Author: Lizzy Peneycad
Description (Physical description)
Solju. Circular brooch, made by Anu Forselus, of silver and gold-plated silver with a long pin fastening on the back. Front of the brooch is comprised of two circles. The smaller, inner circle is domed, and is decorated with cut-out pointed ovals and stamped triangles. The larger, outer circle is slightly convex, and is decorated with gold plated convex circles which hang from soldered silver rings. Made to be worn by a woman.
Event Date 8/3/2023
Author: Lizzy Peneycad
FM:265145
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