Description (Labels & Markings)
Label sewn into back lining of garment at nape of neck reads: 'T.3-1911'.
Event Date
Author: Lucie Carreau

Description (Labels & Markings)
White ?chalk markings can be seen amidst the embroidered border, likely showing where the design was worked out.
Event Date
Author: Sophie Wardle

Description (Physical description)
Black, silk coat, with lining of deep blue silk. Elaborately embroidered with leaves, butterflies and birds. Ends of sleeves in pale blue silk, embroidered with green and gold.
Event Date
Author: maa

Context (Analysis)
Similar to Z 19196 A.
Event Date
Author: maa

Description (Labels & Markings)
Label with Chinese characters in black ink attached to inside of object reads: '官服（袷）上着 第七 褂‘ (Official clothing (lined) upper garment number seven overcoat/gown/robe.'
Event Date
Author: Danlei Zhou

Description (Physical description)
There are also two square panels of embroidery, one on the front and one on the back, depicting a bird with wings outstretched in front of a blue background. The threads used are metallic looking, although not wire.
Event Date 14/10/2004
Author: Lucie Carreau

Context (Analysis)
The coat still has the ranking badge attached (the panel with the bird). This badge indicates a person of a civic background. The various buddhist symbols reference good qualities such as honesty and fidelity. The sun emblem signifies the emperor. Depending on the sex of the wearer the bird in these badges would face right or left.
Event Date 24/11/2014
Author: maa

Conservation (Repack)
CON.2015.1140 | Repack
Event Date 14/4/2015
Author: cao37

Description (Physical description)
Civic Rank Robe. Woven black silk damask with circular motif of bird; Front opening, high collar, long sleeves, side splits, lined with mid blue silk. Robe decorated with embroidered black silk borders of bright flowers and butterflies and edged with bows and circles of pale blue ribbon, mauve lace and light blue braid. Sleeves with deep cuff of couched metallic thread into pale blue silk. Rank badge on front and back, bird faces sun disk in upper left corner = mans robe. Bird appliqued onto badge possibly late Qing period. Bird - metallic silver thread, red flush on head, seven coloured tail feathers, green legs stands over sea with trees and hills around. No buddhist symbols noted.
Event Date 07/12/2016
Author: maa

Description (Physical description)
Civil official's overcoat, gown, or robe, with elaborate embroidered decoration. Black silk damask with integral woven design of repeating circles containing crane, sun, and floral motifs. Upright collar with blue ribbon decoration featuring floral pattern. Front opening, with five button fastenings. Single slit up each side revealing vivid blue lining. Long sleeves. Two bands decorate the garment at its edges and around its collar and cuffs. One is of applied black textile with embroidered butterfly and floral motifs in mostly green, blue, pink, and purple thread. The other is a band of interconnected coiling, circular lace, and bow-like decorations formed of purple thread, blue braid, and pale-grey ribbon. Additional sections of pale-blue fabric at cuffs, with flowers and butterflies embroidered using couching technique and incorporating metallic thread. The large rectangular embroidered patches loosely attached to front and back upper-chest of garment are rank badges or 'Mandarin squares'; they depict a bird (perhaps a crane) and sun disk, both in metallic thread. Some brownish staining to lining.
Event Date 31/1/2024
Author: Sophie Wardle

Context (Analysis)
The bird depicted on the rank badge is difficult to identify, but the red head shown here may suggest it is a crane. A crane denotes the first rank of civil official.
Event Date 31/1/2024
Author: Sophie Wardle

Context (Amendments / updates)
Fitzwilliam Museum has been added to the source field based on label. This is in the same format as other Fitzwilliam Accession numbers and indicates that it was accessioned by them in 1911.
Event Date 18/6/2024
Author: Clare McKenna