Accession No
Z 18161
Description
Hooded and slightly padded cloak of blue silk decorated with embroidery and metal embellishments. Cloak of blue silk with red silk lining and yellow silk edging; embroidered with a border of yellow, red, green and cream threads around the hood opening, front and bottom edges of cloak; two triangular silk and embroidery panels at front corners; trapezoidal chest piece or fastening, decorated with geometric motifs and with a fringe of metal cones; hood, neck and shoulders decorated with filigree domes and gilded metal shapes including stars; fringe of cones hanging from opening of hood.
Place
Africa; East Africa; Ethiopia
Period
19th century
Source
Smith (Mr) [vendor]; Victoria and Albert Museum [donor]
Department
Anth
Reference Numbers
Z 18161
Cultural Affliation
Material
Cloth; Silk; Cotton; Fibre; Metal; Copper alloy; ?Silver; ?Gilt; Glass
Local Term
Measurements
1550mm x 80mm x 1590mm
Events
Description (Physical description)
Duplicate record: 'Cloak? Blue silk outside with yellow embroidery. A lot of sewn-on metal, including 'cups'. Red silk lining.'
Event Date
Author: Katrina Dring
Description (Physical description)
Catalogue card: 'Very elaborate cloak with many metal fittings.'
Event Date
Author: maa
Context (Related Documents)
Printed V&A register notes '923-1873 Cloak, of dark blue silk lined with red silk (semicircular) bordered with a series of bands of interlaced waved lines and leaf devices, edged with a scallop ornament embroidered with coloured silks in chain stitch. At the two front corners, panels of yellow satin covered with similar silk embroidery. Beaten silver ornaments are stitched along the edge of the cloak, and in radiations about filigree bosses. The morse or clasp of primitive ornament beaten in silver, gilt. Abyssinian. 19th Century. L.5ft. 2 in., W. round bottom, 10ft. '
Event Date
Author: maa
Context (Amendments / updates)
Catalogue card: 'No label, but assigned to Ethiopia on the basis of its resemblance to 1944.25. See also Z 19184-5 and Z 19188.'
Event Date
Author: maa
Context (Other owners)
Purchased by the Victoria and Albert Museum from Mr Smith, 17 Howland St for £8 on 17 July 1873.
Event Date 17/7/1873
Author: Lucie Carreau
Context (Acquisition Details)
Transferred from the Victoria and Albert Museum to MAA on 24 August 1934.
Event Date 1934
Author: Lucie Carreau
Description (Physical description)
Blue coat with red lining at the inside. The cape is heavily embroidered with red, yellow, green, blue and white and different metal elements are hanging from the cape.
Event Date 14/9/2005
Author: Katrina Dring
Context (Amendments / updates)
Information supplied by Nicola Stylianou, PhD student at the V&A and taken from the V&A archives, offers evidence that Z 19184-5, Z 18161 and Z 19188 were transferred from the Victoria and Albert Museum on 24/8/1934, with the Hawaiian cape 1934.1159, three Chinese textiles, a Russian silk, and a fringed woven vegetable fibre textile, with bands of geometrical patterns' from the South Seas, the latter items as yet unidentified.
The handwritten V&A register, completed on entry, noted it was purchased from Mr Smith, 17 Howland St for £8, and gives the date of receipt from stores as 17th July 1873.
Event Date 15/11/2010
Author: Rachel Hand
Context (References)
Stylianou, Nicola Stella (2012) Producing and Collecting for Empire: African Textiles in the V&A 1852-2000. PhD thesis, University of the Arts London and the Victoria and Albert Museum. , p. 92-4 notes that 'There are two further similar kabbas, blue silk with metal bosses, in the MAA collection that were also transferred from the V&A. They are as heavily, decorated as the Queen’s robe. The Museum fur Volkerkunde in Vienna has a similar cloak acquired in 1905 which is described as having been worn by ‘high ranking noblewomen on festive occasions’ (Plankensteiner 2005:29). Unlike the Queen’s robe the bosses on the back do not depict any animals (Fig. 2.16)./ This cloak was sold to the V&A in 1869 for £8 by Colonel Edward Stanton. Colonel Stanton (later General Sir Edward Stanton, KCB, KCMG) was appointed agent and consul general to Egypt in May 1865 while negotiations with Tewodros II for the release of the British captives were ongoing. As Egyptian consul he was involved in these negotiations and probably received this robe as an acknowledgement for his role.
Event Date 2012
Author: rachel hand
Conservation (Pest Debris Removed)
CON.2015.1616 | Pest Debris Removed
Event Date 17/6/2015
Author: cao37
Description (Physical description)
Large, heavy hooded cloak made of woven blue silk satin (?) with red silk lining, slightly padded. Blue silk embellished with painted metallic shapes (stars, teardrops, medallions etc) and brightly coloured embroidery threads - red, yellow, green - around front opening and hood. Additional large metallic breast plate and decorative filigree half cages on hood and back. Several metal pieces present but detached.
Event Date 7/12/2016
Author: maa
Context (Amendments / updates)
Dorothea McEwan noted that the metal ornaments were locally made apart from the filigree dome which were made in India, and probably imported by Indian merchants. From notes made during a visit of the Anglo-Ethiopian Society 17/5/2017
Event Date 22/5/2017
Author: Rachel Hand
Conservation (Remedial)
CON.2023.5818 | Remedial
Event Date 16/11/2023
Author: Ayesha Fuentes
Description (Physical description)
Hooded and slightly padded cloak of blue silk decorated with embroidery and metal embellishments. Cloak of blue silk with red silk lining and yellow silk edging; embroidered with a border of yellow, red, green and cream threads around the hood opening, front and bottom edges of cloak; two triangular silk and embroidery panels at front corners; trapezoidal chest piece or fastening, decorated with geometric motifs and with a fringe of metal cones; hood, neck and shoulders decorated with filigree domes and gilded metal shapes including stars; fringe of cones hanging from opening of hood.
Event Date 22/11/2023
Author: Katrina Dring
FM:106029
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